Antártida

UN MUNDO DE HIELO

Este es el relato de una aventura poco común: un viaje al más inexplorado y mítico de los continentes: la Antártida. Durante 18 días, a bordo de un crucero de expedición, la autora de esta crónica recorrió las islas Georgias del Sur, Shetland del Sur y la Península Antártica. En esa reserva blanca del mundo, donde todo es hielo y nieve, se topó con graciosos pingüinos, poco amigables focas, cementerios de antiguas balleneras, bases científicas de todas las banderas, y pudo aproximarse a la dramática odisea que vivió en estas peligrosas aguas el legendario pionero

CRÓNICAS

Antártida

UN MUNDO DE HIELO

Este es el relato de una aventura poco común: un viaje al más inexplorado y mítico de los continentes: la Antártida. Durante 18 días, a bordo de un crucero de expedición, la autora de esta crónica recorrió las islas Georgias del Sur, Shetland del Sur y la Península Antártica. En esa reserva blanca del mundo, donde todo es hielo y nieve, se topó con graciosos pingüinos, poco amigables focas, cementerios de antiguas balleneras, bases científicas de todas las banderas, y pudo aproximarse a la dramática odisea que vivió en estas peligrosas aguas el legendario pionero

Ella me mira, yo la miro, nos miramos. Nos medimos. Recuerdo la foto que me mostraron: una mano mordida hasta el hueso. Recuerdo que no debería estar aquí, me lo dijeron, no es seguro. Estoy paralizada. Pero ella no: se acerca a mí. Hacia delante está el hielo, hacia atrás está el mar. La miro fijo: es una foca común, no muy grande, pero se mueve rápido. “No corras –pienso–. No corras”. Somos cinco personas alrededor de la foca. En medio de la tormenta de nieve, nadie la había visto; sólo queríamos llegar cuanto antes a la tumba de Ernest Shackleton, el famoso aventurero de los mares del sur. Valeria había apoyado su equipo fotográfico en el piso por un instante, y cuando se dio vuelta para buscarlo, la foca estaba a punto de pasarle por encima. Había corrido a rescatarlo. Le habíamos dicho que no corriera, pero ya era tarde: la foca se había puesto en marcha, derecho hacia ella. Hasta que escuchó mi voz. Se dio vuelta, abandonó a Valeria y empezó a venir hacia mí. Somos cinco; no tiene mucho lugar por dónde escapar. Avanza. De repente estoy segura: va a morder a alguien. Es cuestión de segundos. La foca avanza y no se puede negociar con ella, no puedo sobornarla ni conmoverla. Trato de recordar lo que me dijeron.

“No corras, asústala”. Levanto mi cabeza hacia el cielo, en medio de la tormenta de nieve, abro la boca y grito. Grito como gritan las focas, los pingüinos, los lobos marinos. Grito con toda la garganta, con todo el cuerpo. No tengo nada que perder. La foca me mira fijo. Valeria, Lepe y los otros periodistas también. Nadie se mueve. No sé cuánto dura el grito. Lepe dice que fueron tres minutos; podría ser más, podría ser menos. Un lapso fuera del tiempo, del que salgo agarrada a su voz que me dice “ya está, ya pasó, ven por aquí”. Retrocedo muy despacio, mis ojos clavados en los ojos de la foca clavados en los míos. Alcanzo a Lepe, me escondo detrás de un barco naufragado. “Ya pasó”, me dice. Tiemblo. Nos tomamos otros quince minutos para llegar a la tumba de Shackleton por el más largo de los caminos, sobre el hielo quebradizo que se vence a cada paso. Frente a la piedra, Valeria le enrostra: “Shackleton, si supieras todo lo que pasamos para visitarte”. Más tarde, en el barco, otra vez en los brazos de la confortable civilización, una escena se repite: los pasajeros desfilan por mi mesa y, en inglés, en francés, en alemán, en portugués, me preguntan por qué gritó la foca.

Valeria, Lepe, otros 257 pasajeros, ochenta miembros de la tripulación y yo viajamos a bordo del Nordnorge, un buque noruego que se dirige a la Antártida.La Antártida: un gran signo de interrogación, una expectativa ansiosa. ¿Cómo imaginar un territorio que no tiene rutas, ni ciudades, ni monumentos? Los mapas son siempre icónicamente blancos. ¿Qué pensar de ese lugar tan poco pisado por los hombres en el que ni siquiera hay caminos? Y con un nombre blanco, todo lleno de aes. Como un espacio lleno de vacío. Con ese vacío en el casillero de las expectativas me embarqué, un martes, en el puerto de Buenos Aires, como quien va al espacio exterior, o al interior. Días y días mar adentro, o más bien adentro del mar, envueltos por un horizonte infinito, llevan necesariamente allí. Altamar es un lugar extraño. No hay países ni banderas ni moneda, sólo mar por donde se mire. Durante jornadas enteras no se ve más que agua y cielo por los cuatro costados –si es que se puede pensar en que fueran cuatro, en que fueran costados–. Mientras tanto, nos acostumbramos a caminar, dormir, escuchar conferencias y comer en movimiento, viendo el horizonte subir y bajar. Y también nos adaptamos a otra velocidad, sin televisión, sin celulares, sin publicidad, sin autos, sin dinero.

La comida es internacional, así como el pasaje: 68 alemanes, 50 estadounidenses, 35 británicos, 29 brasileños, 21 noruegos, 8 franceses, 50 del resto del mundo. El capitán es noruego, como corresponde. La tripulación, casi en su totalidad, es filipina y muy amable, como suele suceder en todos los cruceros del mundo. Aunque este no es un crucero común, sino un viaje de expedición. Nada de discoteca ni casino ni fiesta de la espuma. A cambio, conferencias científicas y el punto clave que diferencia a este barco: la posibilidad de bajar en territorio antártico, de pisar –con estrictas botas de goma– ese continente tan poco pisado y de pasearse entre los pingüinos. Y las focas.

HACIA EL HIELO

“Ladies and gentleman, our first iceberg”. Justo cuando Ian Shaw, el líder de expedición, está llegando al clímax de su relato sobre la epopeya de Shackleton, su micrófono se queda sin sonido y una voz de mujer da la noticia. Saltamos de las sillas; una pequeña línea de luz en el horizonte, casi nada, blanco sobre blanco, se vuelve el objeto de deseo de todas las cámaras. Vamos hacia las Georgias del Sur, una isla alejada casi por igual de Sudamérica, Antártida y Africa, favorita de los marinos y los amantes de la vida silvestre. Precisamente allí descansa Shackleton, el mayor héroe antártico, no tanto por sus logros como por sus esfuerzos: su barco se hundió en el hielo de las Shetlands del Sur, y él remó 1.287 kilómetros de mar para buscar ayuda. A la mañana siguiente, los icebergs ya casi no llaman la atención. Tras cruzar el meridiano 45°, el que atraviesa Groenlandia, hemos adelantado los relojes. Una hora más jóvenes, visitamos al capitán en el puente de mando; más de uno sueña con echar por la borda su vida anterior y volverse marinero. El buque cruza la convergencia antártica y el mar se vuelve más frío. A las cinco, algún instinto me arranca de la cama. Por la ventana del camarote aparece la primera piedra de la Georgia. La sigue una montaña nevada, y un glaciar. En quince segundos estoy afuera. Todo está quieto, helado y blanco, como en el primer minuto del mundo. Esta isla fue muy popular entre los cazadores de focas y lobos marinos del siglo XIX, y durante buena parte del XX hospedó siete estaciones balleneras, donde dos mil personas coexistían con pingüinos y albatros. A las siete, el sol hace brillar hasta el último rincón de la bahía Fortuna, completamente nevada. El Nordnorge se clava en un punto del agua. La acción está por comenzar. Los 260 pasajeros tenemos ya puestas nuestras camperas y salvavidas reglamentarios; nos organizamos en ocho grupos y esperamos pacientemente la llamada. Llegar a los botes ya es una aventura. Tras bajar dos pisos alfombrados, aparece otra parte del barco: una serie de carteles llevan a una escalera que desciende a una suerte de garaje lleno de botas de goma ordenadas por talle. Están ahí para que nos las pongamos, son normas del Tratado Antártico: no se puede trasladar nada al continente blanco, ni siquiera una semilla pegada a la suela del zapato. Equiparse: gorro, guantes, protector solar. Uno a uno vamos pasando nuestras identificaciones por una lectora que dice “good-bye” con voz electrónica. Nos subimos las capuchas y bajamos a los botes.

Cuando el octavo pasajero sube al Polar Cirkle, el conductor arranca sin piedad. En diez segundos estamos todos cruelmente mojados. Pero no importa: el día es hermoso, y en la costa unos puntitos oscuros se van revelando como un comité de recepción formado por pingüinos, focas, lobos y elefantes marinos. Después de ver tantas fotos y películas de pingüinos, ya casi no creíamos que fueran reales. Yo no lo sabía, pero lo aprendí en las conferencias del Nordnorge: hay diecisiete clases de pingüinos. Estos que se van delineando son los enormes pingüinos rey, soberbios con sus “moños” dorados. ¿Quién hubiera creído en su existencia si no los hubiese visto? Deben ser los únicos animales que andan sobre sus dos patas, la cabecita para arriba, oteando el horizonte y avanzando. Los pájaros también andan así, pero sólo cuando no vuelan; los pingüinos nunca vuelan, nadan. ¿Por qué será que se los llama aves? Al menos averigüé por qué caminan con ese pasito tan gracioso. Basta con ponerse las botas de goma e intentar andar en su mismo terreno. Al apoyar el pie en el hielo, hay muchas posibilidades de irse para abajo y quedar atrapado, como me ocurre en cuanto piso Georgia. Por eso van ahí, con su pasito vacilante, uno detrás de otro, en fila. El mejor lugar para pisar es aquel por el que ya han ido los demás, no sólo porque probablemente hayan elegido el mejor camino, sino también porque sus propios pasos habrán domesticado la nieve. Los miro un rato y decido que, sin duda, esa sería la mejor manera de salir de mi trampa de hielo. Claro que no puedo hacer lo que hacen ellos cuando se cansan: se tiran al piso y se trasladan a pura panza-patín, usándose a sí mismos de trineo. Supongo que por eso tienen siempre la panza tan lustrosa. Son el eslabón perdido entre el pájaro, la foca y el hombre, tan torpe pero siempre con la cabeza arriba y la mirada fija. Los pichones se ven casi más grandes que los adultos, más redondos. Cubiertos de un plumón marrón, parecen pompones gigantes. Es inimaginable cómo esos mega gorriones se convierten en los distinguidos pingüinos rey. Sin embargo, si se mira por un rato, se puede detectar a algunos en plena muda de plumaje. Da la sensación de que el verdadero pingüino estuviese ya completito esperando abajo del plumón, como una mariposa dentro de la crisálida.

PUEBLOS FANTASMA

Tras 16 días de remo y 36 horas de agotadora caminata a través del inexplorado corazón de la isla, Shackleton llegó a la estación ballenera Stromness. Nosotros somos más afortunados: llegamos en nuestro barco de siete pisos, con restaurante, cafetería 24 horas, boutique, salas de conferencia, lavandería, gimnasio, sauna y jacuzzi. Desde la cubierta vemos las ruinas, enrojecidas por el óxido y derribadas por el viento. Stromness funcionó desde 1907 hasta 1961; hoy grandes carteles advierten del peligro de los asbestos liberados en la zona. En la costa, entre los desechos metálicos, duerme una colonia de lobos marinos. También caminan por ahí los pingüinos rey y una especie nueva: los de Papúa. De pronto, como una visión, cruzan frente a nosotros tres renos, como salidos del trineo de Santa Claus. Son nativos del hemisferio norte; los marineros noruegos los trajeron en barco, con el objetivo de comérselos si no encontraban un menú mejor. Hoy se trepan a las montañas de Georgia como si fueran cabras. Detrás de los edificios abandonados se esconde un pequeño cementerio de balleneros. Para llegar hay que cruzar un arroyo; no queda otra que meter las botas de goma en el agua helada y caminar con cuidado, tal como los balleneros habrán hecho cientos de veces. Trece cruces recuerdan a trece hombres que murieron muy lejos de casa. La “capital” de la isla está en otra bahía, Grytviken; muy cerca de allí se encuentra King Edward’s Point, la base británica, con alrededor de quince habitantes estables. Desde el barco casi no se ve nada: la nieve es tanta que el equipo de expedición debe abrir camino. Apenas se adivinan las ruinas rojizas de la fábrica de aceite de ballena. Más atrás se ubica lo que quedó de las casas de los trabajadores, la oficina central, el hospital, la panadería, la iglesia –la única del archipiélago– y hasta un cine en miniatura. Cuesta creer que allí vivieron, en su momento de esplendor, hasta cuatrocientas personas, entre cazadores de ballenas, técnicos, esposas e hijos. Hoy sólo hay dos habitantes estables: Tim y Pauline Carr, los encargados del museo. En la que supo ser la casa del administrador, se puede ver un albatros embalsamado, los trajes que se dejó olvidada la expedición de Shackleton, el viejo proyector de cine junto al programa de la Navidad 1959 –que incluye Siete novias para siete hermanos–, ¡varios frascos de aceite de ballena y hasta una piel de pingüino rey con un cartel que dice “please touch me!”.

Los pasajeros del Nordnorge se agolpan en el museo, huyendo de la tormenta. Allí se puede hacer algo muy infrecuente en este viaje: comprar. La tienda se especializa, claro, en merchandising de Shackleton. Los restos del navegante descansan en la otra punta del pueblo. En un día normal llegar allí sería un paseo, pero en medio de la tormenta se vuelve un desafío. La luz ciega; es muy difícil ver por dónde se camina. Hay que ir por la costa, y con cuidado: alcanza un movimiento para quedar sumergido en la nieve hasta más arriba de las rodillas, o quebrar el hielo y quedar en el agua. Lo más difícil es conservar las botas, que se empecinan en quedarse trabadas. Y después, claro, está la foca.

Good morning ladies and gentleman”. Como todas las mañanas, escucho desde la cama el saludo del líder de expedición, que se transmite por radio en todo el barco. “It’s 7.30. We have sad news: one passenger has passed away last night”. ¿Cómo? ¿Por qué? Y, sobre todo, ¿quién? Un barco en altamar, 260 pasajeros, 80 tripulantes, un muerto: Agatha Christie no lo hubiera hecho mejor. Durante el desayuno no se habla de otra cosa. La noche anterior, por primera vez, unos cuantos nos habíamos acostado sin cenar; en pleno Océano Antártico, el viento se hacía sentir. Más de uno se habría atado a la cama. El muerto, ¿habrá sufrido mareos? El enigma va develándose de a poco: se trata de un pasajero estadounidense, de 59 años, que viajaba con su suegro. Habría sufrido un paro cardiorrespiratorio. La investigación del hecho estará a cargo de la comisaría de Ushuaia, adonde llegaremos en una semana. Por el momento, el acompañante deberá hacer su duelo a bordo, e intentar disfrutar de todos modos de la salvaje belleza antártica. En el muerto es mejor no pensar. A la mañana siguiente, otro anuncio: un pasajero es sacerdote, e improvisará una misa en memoria del difunto. “Eso es buena suerte”, pienso. El servicio se lleva a cabo en inglés, en el salón panorámico del piso 7, mientras avanzamos raudamente hacia las Shetlands del Sur.

MATE POLACO

Es la utopía de Lennon: un territorio de nadie, y a la vez de todos. De todos los que quieran usarlo para fines científicos, claro, no de lucro ni de explotación. La isla Rey Jorge, en las Shetlands, es conocida como “la capital de la Antártida”, porque aloja treinta bases científicas de diferentes países, algunas a pocos cientos de metros de las otras. No hay fronteras en el hielo. Jacek, de 24 años, alto, pálido y rubio, lleva casi un año en la base polaca Arctowski, y se quedará hasta el final del verano. Después debe abandonar ese mundo de trece personas para volver a Varsovia. “Me quedaría –dice– pero tengo que terminar de estudiar”. Convida un típico mate rioplatense, y aclara que la yerba es un regalo de sus vecinos de la base argentina Jubany. Cuenta que, en los inviernos, cuando ya vieron todas las películas que trajeron, pueden llegar a aburrirse. Y que la peor parte es que todavía no tienen internet: su trabajo es montar la conexión.

La mayor parte del personal antártico, explica, es tan joven como él: gente sedienta de aventuras, sin miedo a las condiciones térmicas extremas. Contra toda sospecha, Jacek se queja del calor: “En verano, los techos de chapa se recalientan y adentro puede hacer más de treinta grados”. Una pequeña tienda de recuerdos es atendida por la única mujer de la base. “Esto no es para chicas”, sentencia Jacek. Sobre la playa hay huesos de ballena y un cartel de esos que señalan la distancia al resto del mundo: Varsovia: 14.473 km, Polo Norte: 16.864 km; Washington DC: 11.140 km. Cuando el sol baja despacito, el viento se calma. Todo está quieto; de la nieve sube una suerte de euforia. Después de muchos días blancos, la multiplicación de colores parece un milagro. La baranda de la cubierta tiene unos diez centímetros de nieve. Debe haber nevado toda la noche. Por donde mire, sólo se ven bloques de hielo. Todo es blanco, menos el cielo gris. Programa del día: isla Cuverville, en el canal Errera. Apenas subimos a los botes notamos que las condiciones no son normales. En la playa, el equipo de expedición nos espera con hielo hasta la cintura. El Polar Cirkle esquiva témpanos en su esfuerzo por llegar a la costa. Finalmente, el equipo de expedición abre los hielos para nosotros y bajamos. Parece el refugio de Superman, tomado por una colonia de pingüinos Papúa. Por primera vez siento frío y me pongo en la fila para volver al barco antes de la hora señalada. Pero la fila se va extendiendo, y los botes no llegan. Sobre la playa donde desembarcamos, el agua se congela y el hielo va cerrando el camino. Después de un rato demasiado largo, nos informan que debido a los fuertes vientos es imposible subir al barco. Somos ochenta personas en tierra. La emergencia durará hasta que cambie el viento: nadie puede hacer un pronóstico. El equipo médico reparte unos trajes térmicos anaranjados que cubren a los más friolentos de pies a cabeza; parecen teletubbies.

Mientras se arman algunas carpas para socorrer a los más afectados, los demás hacemos lo que aprendimos en el film “La marcha de los pingüinos”: nos juntamos para conservar el calor, y rotamos la posición de los que van afuera. Aprovechamos para contar historias; todo sea por no pensar en el frío. Trato de no alarmarme, pero registro que estoy perdiendo sensibilidad en el pie derecho. Después de dos horas, un guía invita a una caminata. Todo lo que un rato antes estaba prohibido, como andar fuera de los límites marcados, ahora se puede. Subimos un monte y bajamos resbalando sobre los pantalones. Pensamos en acampar y pasar la noche. Justo cuando empezábamos a divertirnos, nos avisan que el rescate está en camino. Como para que no nos vayamos con las manos vacías, se desata una tremenda tormenta de nieve. En una playa al otro lado de la isla se materializan termos con chocolate caliente. Son las cuatro de la tarde y el chocolate es el mejor del mundo. En el barco nos reciben como a héroes, con una copa de cognac para entrar en calor. Nos damos cuenta de que vivimos un resumen de la aventura de Shackleton en apenas seis horas. Esa tarde, el viaje alcanza su cenit: ya estamos volviendo hacia el norte. Mi pie derecho arde y pica. Por el ojo de buey que da a la popa se ven tres cosas: cielo, mar y icebergs.

BLANCO, ROSADO, NEGRO.

Tarde aprendimos que con otro par de medias el mundo cambia. Después de tantas islas, por fin pisamos la Península Antártica, envueltos en una nevisca que impide ver los propios pies. Jugamos a la guerra, hacemos angelitos y hasta disfrutamos de tres arremetidas de viento blanco, en cuclillas, sin saber si alguna vez vamos a poder volver y riendo. Por la tarde visitamos Port Lockroy, una base británica que hoy funciona como museo. Situada en una isla mínima, se conserva tal como era en 1950, con las mismas latas de tomate y los mismos equipos de telecomunicación. Es extraño encontrar un museo en semejante rincón del mundo. Los encargados del lugar, Rick y Sally, llegan con nosotros en el Nordnorge. Una multitud de pingüinos Papúa sale a recibirlos. El suelo está rosado por el guano, que conserva el color del krill. Sale el sol; la tarde es tan cálida que empieza a oler a zoológico. Queda sólo una última bajada: la isla Decepción, formada por la explosión de un volcán.

Llegamos en una mañana resplandeciente: los icebergs son un recuerdo, y casi no hay nieve sobre la tierra volcánica. Bajamos en una playa negra, con rocas de formas extrañas. Las ruinas metálicas de una estación ballenera de principios del siglo XX se superponen a las de una base británica que sufrió la furia del volcán y redondean un paisaje de ciencia ficción. A esta isla la llaman “el parque de diversiones”: se puede subir una montaña, bajarla deslizando por la nieve e incluso bañarse en una pileta de aguas termales preparada ad hoc por el equipo de expedición. Eso sí, para acceder al agua caliente –y al diploma que conlleva– es necesario, antes, sumergirse en las heladas aguas antárticas. Contra todo pronóstico, más de un valiente luce traje de baño y consigue su diploma.

Hay algo violentamente anticonvencional, casi anti geográfico en llegar a Ushuaia desde el sur. Después de atravesar durante un día y medio un pasaje de Drake inusualmente tranquilo, el Nordnorge va entrando en el mítico canal de Beagle. Casi no nos damos cuenta, entretenidos con la gala del capitán y la despedida de la tripulación. De pronto, en medio de la cena se ve algo más oscuro que la oscuridad del mar. Me siento un poco como Rodrigo de Triana, y también ridícula. No vale irse a dormir; subimos al bar del piso 7 a celebrar la fiesta de despedida. Apenas son las 12 cuando vemos aparecer luces, las primeras luces en tierra en muchos días. Es el pueblito chileno de Puerto Williams. El aura anaranjada de Ushuaia ya se ve desde la proa. A las 4.15 el barco termina su maniobra. Amarrado al muelle, el Nordnorge ya no se mece. Se escuchan bocinazos en el puerto. Adiós a las tormentas de nieve y los animales salvajes; ahora vuelven el asfalto, el teléfono, los problemas del mundo. Después de tantos días en el mar, la llegada a tierra se siente como un desamparo. Entro a mi cabina por última vez. No sé cómo dormir en una cama tan quieta.

más leídos

Leave a Comment

Your email address will not be published.

Leave a Comment

Your email address will not be published.

publicaciones recientes
MáS LEíDOS
más leídos
VIDEOS

Leave a Comment

Your email address will not be published.

CONTACTO

GHIDS MEDIA CORP & ALMA MAGAZINE

Website And Web Application

Terms and conditions

ALMA MAGAZINE is a media owned by GHIDS MEDIA CORP.

These terms and conditions (“Agreement”) set forth the general terms and conditions of your use of the ALMA MAGAZINE.com website (“Website”), and any of their related products and services (collectively, “Services”). This Agreement is legally binding between you (“User”, “you” or “your”) and GHIDS MEDIA CORP (doing business as “ALMA MAGAZINE”, “we”, “us” or “our”). If you are entering into this agreement on behalf of a business or other legal entity, you represent that you have the authority to bind such entity to this agreement, in which case the terms “User”, “you” or “your” shall refer to such entity. If you do not have such authority, or if you do not agree with the terms of this agreement, you must not accept this agreement and may not access and use the Services. By accessing and using the Services, you acknowledge that you have read, understood, and agree to be bound by the terms of this Agreement. You acknowledge that this Agreement is a contract between you and ALMA MAGAZINE even though it is electronic and is not physically signed by you, and it governs your use of the Services.

Accounts and membership

If you create an account on the Services, you are responsible for maintaining the security of your account and you are fully responsible for all activities that occur under the account and any other actions taken in connection with it. We may monitor and review new accounts before you may sign in and start using the Services. Providing false contact information of any kind may result in the termination of your account. You must immediately notify us of any unauthorized uses of your account or any other breaches of security. We will not be liable for any acts or omissions by you, including any damages of any kind incurred as a result of such acts or omissions. We may suspend, disable, or delete your account (or any part thereof) if we determine that you have violated any provision of this Agreement or that your conduct or content would tend to damage our reputation and goodwill. If we delete your account for the foregoing reasons, you may not re-register for our Services. We may block your email address and Internet protocol address to prevent further registration.

User content

We do not own any data, information or material (collectively, “Content”) that you submit on the Services in the course of using the Service. You shall have sole responsibility for the accuracy, quality, integrity, legality, reliability, appropriateness, and intellectual property ownership or right to use of all submitted Content. We may monitor and review the Content on the Services submitted or created using our Services by you. You grant us permission to access, copy, distribute, store, transmit, reformat, display and perform the Content of your user account solely as required for the purpose of providing the Services to you. Without limiting any of those representations or warranties, we have the right, though not the obligation, to, in our own sole discretion, refuse or remove any Content that, in our reasonable opinion, violates any of our policies or is in any way harmful or objectionable. You also grant us the license to use, reproduce, adapt, modify, publish or distribute the Content created by you or stored in your user account for commercial, marketing or any similar purpose.

Billing and payments

You shall pay all fees or charges to your account in accordance with the fees, charges, and billing terms in effect at the time a fee or charge is due and payable. Where Services are offered on a free trial basis, payment may be required after the free trial period ends, and not when you enter your billing details (which may be required prior to the commencement of the free trial period). If auto-renewal is enabled for the Services you have subscribed for, you will be charged automatically in accordance with the term you selected. If, in our judgment, your purchase constitutes a high-risk transaction, we will require you to provide us with a copy of your valid government-issued photo identification, and possibly a copy of a recent bank statement for the credit or debit card used for the purchase. We reserve the right to change products at any time. We also reserve the right to refuse any order you place with us. We may, in our sole discretion, limit or cancel quantities purchased per person, per household or per order. These restrictions may include orders placed by or under the same customer account, the same credit card, and/or orders that use the same billing and/or shipping address. In the event that we make a change to or cancel an order, we may attempt to notify you by contacting the e-mail and/or billing address/phone number provided at the time the order was made.

Accuracy of information

Occasionally there may be information on the Services that contains typographical errors, inaccuracies or omissions that may relate to availability, promotions and offers. We reserve the right to correct any errors, inaccuracies or omissions, and to change or update information or cancel orders if any information on the Services or Services is inaccurate at any time without prior notice (including after you have submitted your order). We undertake no obligation to update, amend or clarify information on the Services including, without limitation, pricing information, except as required by law. No specified update or refresh date applied on the Services should be taken to indicate that all information on the Services or Services has been modified or updated.

Third party services

If you decide to enable, access or use third party services, be advised that your access and use of such other services are governed solely by the terms and conditions of such other services, and we do not endorse, are not responsible or liable for, and make no representations as to any aspect of such other services, including, without limitation, their content or the manner in which they handle data (including your data) or any interaction between you and the provider of such other services. You irrevocably waive any claim against ALMA MAGAZINE with respect to such other services. ALMA MAGAZINE is not liable for any damage or loss caused or alleged to be caused by or in connection with your enablement, access or use of any such other services, or your reliance on the privacy practices, data security processes or other policies of such other services. You may be required to register for or log into such other services on their respective platforms. By enabling any other services, you are expressly permitting ALMA MAGAZINE to disclose your data as necessary to facilitate the use or enablement of such other service.

Backups

We perform regular backups of the Website and its Content and will do our best to ensure completeness and accuracy of these backups. In the event of the hardware failure or data loss we will restore backups automatically to minimize the impact and downtime.

Advertisements

During your use of the Services, you may enter into correspondence with or participate in promotions of advertisers or sponsors showing their goods or services through the Services. Any such activity, and any terms, conditions, warranties or representations associated with such activity, is solely between you and the applicable third party. We shall have no liability, obligation or responsibility for any such correspondence, purchase or promotion between you and any such third party.

Links to other resources

Although the Services may link to other resources (such as websites, mobile applications, etc.), we are not, directly or indirectly, implying any approval, association, sponsorship, endorsement, or affiliation with any linked resource, unless specifically stated herein. Some of the links on the Services may be “affiliate links”. This means if you click on the link and purchase an item, ALMA MAGAZINE will receive an affiliate commission. We are not responsible for examining or evaluating, and we do not warrant the offerings of, any businesses or individuals or the content of their resources. We do not assume any responsibility or liability for the actions, products, services, and content of any other third parties. You should carefully review the legal statements and other conditions of use of any resource which you access through a link on the Services. Your linking to any other off-site resources is at your own risk.

Prohibited uses

In addition to other terms as set forth in the Agreement, you are prohibited from using the Services or Content: (a) for any unlawful purpose; (b) to solicit others to perform or participate in any unlawful acts; (c) to violate any international, federal, provincial or state regulations, rules, laws, or local ordinances; (d) to infringe upon or violate our intellectual property rights or the intellectual property rights of others; (e) to harass, abuse, insult, harm, defame, slander, disparage, intimidate, or discriminate based on gender, sexual orientation, religion, ethnicity, race, age, national origin, or disability; (f) to submit false or misleading information; (g) to upload or transmit viruses or any other type of malicious code that will or may be used in any way that will affect the functionality or operation of the Services, third party products and services, or the Internet; (h) to spam, phish, pharm, pretext, spider, crawl, or scrape; (i) for any obscene or immoral purpose; or (j) to interfere with or circumvent the security features of the Services, third party products and services, or the Internet. We reserve the right to terminate your use of the Services for violating any of the prohibited uses.

Intellectual property rights

“Intellectual Property Rights” means all present and future rights conferred by statute, common law or equity in or in relation to any copyright and related rights, trademarks, designs, patents, inventions, goodwill and the right to sue for passing off, rights to inventions, rights to use, and all other intellectual property rights, in each case whether registered or unregistered and including all applications and rights to apply for and be granted, rights to claim priority from, such rights and all similar or equivalent rights or forms of protection and any other results of intellectual activity which subsist or will subsist now or in the future in any part of the world. This Agreement does not transfer to you any intellectual property owned by ALMA MAGAZINE or third parties, and all rights, titles, and interests in and to such property will remain (as between the parties) solely with ALMA MAGAZINE. All trademarks, service marks, graphics and logos used in connection with the Services, are trademarks or registered trademarks of ALMA MAGAZINE or its licensors. Other trademarks, service marks, graphics and logos used in connection with the Services may be the trademarks of other third parties. Your use of the Services grants you no right or license to reproduce or otherwise use any of ALMA MAGAZINE or third-party trademarks.

Disclaimer of warranty

You agree that such Service is provided on an “as is” and “as available” basis and that your use of the Services is solely at your own risk. We expressly disclaim all warranties of any kind, whether express or implied, including but not limited to the implied warranties of merchantability, fitness for a particular purpose and non-infringement. We make no warranty that the Services will meet your requirements, or that the Service will be uninterrupted, timely, secure, or error-free; nor do we make any warranty as to the results that may be obtained from the use of the Service or as to the accuracy or reliability of any information obtained through the Service or that defects in the Service will be corrected. You understand and agree that any material and/or data downloaded or otherwise obtained through the use of Service is done at your own discretion and risk and that you will be solely responsible for any damage or loss of data that results from the download of such material and/or data. We make no warranty regarding any goods or services purchased or obtained through the Service or any transactions entered into through the Service unless stated otherwise. No advice or information, whether oral or written, obtained by you from us or through the Service shall create any warranty not expressly made herein.

Limitation of liability

To the fullest extent permitted by applicable law, in no event will ALMA MAGAZINE, its affiliates, directors, officers, employees, agents, suppliers or licensors be liable to any person for any indirect, incidental, special, punitive, cover or consequential damages (including, without limitation, damages for lost profits, revenue, sales, goodwill, use of content, impact on business, business interruption, loss of anticipated savings, loss of business opportunity) however caused, under any theory of liability, including, without limitation, contract, tort, warranty, breach of statutory duty, negligence or otherwise, even if the liable party has been advised as to the possibility of such damages or could have foreseen such damages. To the maximum extent permitted by applicable law, the aggregate liability of ALMA MAGAZINE and its affiliates, officers, employees, agents, suppliers and licensors relating to the services will be limited to an amount no greater than one dollar or any amounts actually paid in cash by you to ALMA MAGAZINE for the prior one-month period prior to the first event or occurrence giving rise to such liability. The limitations and exclusions also apply if this remedy does not fully compensate you for any losses or fails of its essential purpose.

Indemnification

You agree to indemnify and hold ALMA MAGAZINE and its affiliates, directors, officers, employees, agents, suppliers and licensors harmless from and against any liabilities, losses, damages or costs, including reasonable attorneys’ fees, incurred in connection with or arising from any third-party allegations, claims, actions, disputes, or demands asserted against any of them as a result of or relating to your Content, your use of the Services or any willful misconduct on your part.

Severability

All rights and restrictions contained in this Agreement may be exercised and shall be applicable and binding only to the extent that they do not violate any applicable laws and are intended to be limited to the extent necessary so that they will not render this Agreement illegal, invalid or unenforceable. If any provision or portion of any provision of this Agreement shall be held to be illegal, invalid or unenforceable by a court of competent jurisdiction, it is the intention of the parties that the remaining provisions or portions thereof shall constitute their agreement with respect to the subject matter hereof, and all such remaining provisions or portions thereof shall remain in full force and effect.

Dispute resolution

The formation, interpretation, and performance of this Agreement and any disputes arising out of it shall be governed by the substantive and procedural laws of Florida, United States without regard to its rules on conflicts or choice of law and, to the extent applicable, the laws of United States. The exclusive jurisdiction and venue for actions related to the subject matter hereof shall be the courts located in Florida, United States, and you hereby submit to the personal jurisdiction of such courts. You hereby waive any right to a jury trial in any proceeding arising out of or related to this Agreement. The United Nations Convention on Contracts for the International Sale of Goods does not apply to this Agreement.

Assignment

You may not assign, resell, sub-license or otherwise transfer or delegate any of your rights or obligations hereunder, in whole or in part, without our prior written consent, which consent shall be at our own sole discretion and without obligation; any such assignment or transfer shall be null and void. We are free to assign any of its rights or obligations hereunder, in whole or in part, to any third party as part of the sale of all or substantially all of its assets or stock or as part of a merger.

Changes and amendments

We reserve the right to modify this Agreement or its terms related to the Services at any time at our discretion. When we do, we will revise the updated date at the bottom of this page, post a notification within the Services, send you an email to notify you. We may also provide notice to you in other ways at our discretion, such as through the contact information you have provided. An updated version of this Agreement will be effective immediately upon the posting of the revised Agreement unless otherwise specified. Your continued use of the Services after the effective date of the revised Agreement (or such other act specified at that time) will constitute your consent to those changes.

Acceptance of these terms

You acknowledge that you have read this Agreement and agree to all its terms and conditions. By accessing and using the Services you agree to be bound by this Agreement. If you do not agree to abide by the terms of this Agreement, you are not authorized to access or use the Services.

Contacting us

If you have any questions, concerns, or complaints regarding this Agreement, we encourage you to contact us using the details below:

info@ALMAMAGAZINE.com

This document was last updated on November 12, 2021

Disclaimer

This disclaimer (“Disclaimer”) sets forth the general guidelines, disclosures, and terms of your use of the BoatsGuideFlorida.com website (“Website”), “ALMA MAGAZINE” mobile application (“Mobile Application”) and any of their related products and services (collectively, “Services”). This Disclaimer is a legally binding agreement between you (“User”, “you” or “your”) and GHIDS MEDIA CORP (doing business as “ALMA MAGAZINE”, “we”, “us” or “our”). If you are entering into this agreement on behalf of a business or other legal entity, you represent that you have the authority to bind such entity to this agreement, in which case the terms “User”, “you” or “your” shall refer to such entity. If you do not have such authority, or if you do not agree with the terms of this agreement, you must not accept this agreement and may not access and use the Services. By accessing and using the Services, you acknowledge that you have read, understood, and agree to be bound by the terms of this Disclaimer. You acknowledge that this Disclaimer is a contract between you and ALMA MAGAZINE, even though it is electronic and is not physically signed by you, and it governs your use of the Services.

Representation

Any views or opinions represented on the Services are personal and belong solely to ALMA MAGAZINE and do not represent those of people, institutions or organizations that ALMA MAGAZINE may or may not be associated with in professional or personal capacity unless explicitly stated. Any views or opinions are not intended to malign any religion, ethnic group, club, organization, company, or individual.

Content and postings

You may not modify, print or copy any part of the Services. Inclusion of any part of the Services in another work, whether in printed or electronic or another form or inclusion of any part of the Services on another resource by embedding, framing or otherwise without the express permission of ALMA MAGAZINE is prohibited.

Compensation and sponsorship

The Services may contain forms of advertising, sponsorship, paid insertions or other forms of compensation. On certain occasions ALMA MAGAZINE may be compensated to provide opinions on products, services, or various other topics. The compensation received may influence such opinions of the advertised content or topics available on the Services. Sponsored content and advertising space will always be identified as such. Some of the links on the Services may be affiliate links. This means if you click on the link and purchase an item, ALMA MAGAZINE will receive an affiliate commission.

Indemnification and warranties

While we have made every attempt to ensure that the information contained on the Services is correct, ALMA MAGAZINE is not responsible for any errors or omissions, or for the results obtained from the use of this information. All information on the Services is provided “as is”, with no guarantee of completeness, accuracy, timeliness or of the results obtained from the use of this information, and without warranty of any kind, express or implied. In no event will ALMA MAGAZINE be liable to you or anyone else for any decision made or action taken in reliance on the information on the Services, or for any consequential, special or similar damages, even if advised of the possibility of such damages. Information on the Services is for general information purposes only and is not intended to provide any type of professional advice. Please seek professional assistance should you require it. Information contained on the Services are subject to change at any time and without warning.

Changes and amendments

We reserve the right to modify this Disclaimer or its terms related to the Services at any time at our discretion. When we do, we will revise the updated date at the bottom of this page, post a notification within the Services, send you an email to notify you. We may also provide notice to you in other ways at our discretion, such as through the contact information you have provided. An updated version of this Disclaimer will be effective immediately upon the posting of the revised Disclaimer unless otherwise specified. Your continued use of the Services after the effective date of the revised Disclaimer (or such other act specified at that time) will constitute your consent to those changes.

Acceptance of this disclaimer

You acknowledge that you have read this Disclaimer and agree to all its terms and conditions. By accessing and using the Services you agree to be bound by this Disclaimer. If you do not agree to abide by the terms of this Disclaimer, you are not authorized to access or use the Services.

Contacting us

If you have any questions, concerns, or complaints regarding this Disclaimer, we encourage you to contact us using the details below:

[email protected]

This document was last updated on March 12, 2022

Privacy Policy
This policy was last updated on March 21, 2022.
Introduction
This Privacy Policy applies to all of the products, services, and websites offered by Ghids Media Corporation and its subsidiaries or affiliated companies (collectively, “Ghids Media”). We provide this notice explaining our privacy practices and the choices you can make about how your information is collected and used by Ghids Media Corporation. Ghids Media has appointed a Data Protection Office to contact if you have any questions or concerns. The Data Protection Office contact information is as follows: Data Protection Office  Ghids Media Corporation  11007 Griffing Blvd. Miami, FL33161  [email protected]
An overview of the information we may collect.
You can take advantage of many Bonnier products, services, and websites without providing any information that personally identifies you by name, address, or other personally-identifying information. We only collect personally-identifying information when you voluntarily submit it to us. Sometimes, we need personally-identifying information to provide you with the products and services you request. Depending upon the product or service, we may ask you for various personally-identifying information. This might include, for example, your name, address, email address, telephone number, gender, and birth date. We may also ask for other information about you, such as your credit card information (when making a purchase), interests, income, or education level. We consider certain identifying information “sensitive.” This includes your credit card number, income level, or other information usually regarded as confidential. Some personal information will never be requested or collected, such as information on your race or ethnic origin, political opinions, trade union memberships, religious beliefs, health, sex life, or sexual orientation. You may choose not to provide us with any personally-identifying information. In that case, you can still access and use many portions of our websites; however, you will not be able to access and use those portions of any Bonnier website that require your personal information. Many Ghids Media websites include community features, such as online forums and message boards. The information posted in these areas becomes public information, and any third party’s use of this information is beyond our control. If you elect to submit content that includes information that can be used to identify you, you must assume that the content can and will be displayed on any website on the Internet. Our properties may feature measurement software, which will allow you to contribute to market research. We allow third-party companies to serve ads and/or collect certain information when you visit our website and directly in emails/communications. These companies may use information you have shared (e.g., click stream information, browser type, time and date, subject of advertisements clicked or scrolled over, email address) during your visits to this and other Web sites to provide advertisements about goods and services likely to be of greater interest to you. Our partners use this information to recognize you across different channels and platforms over time for advertising, analytics, attribution, and reporting purposes; any information collected is stored in hashed or non-human-readable form. These companies typically use a cookie or third party web beacon to collect this information. Ghids Media websites sometimes may offer contests, sweepstakes, or promotions sponsored by or co-sponsored with identified third parties. Under their sponsorship, these third parties may obtain personally-identifying information that visitors voluntarily submit to them to participate in the contest, sweepstakes, or promotion. B Ghids Media has no control over the third-party sponsors’ use of this information. If a third-party sponsor beyond our control will obtain information that you supply us, we will notify you when we collect the information from you. For specific promotions, only those who provide us with the requested personally-identifying information will be able to order products, programs, and services or otherwise participate in the promotion’s activities and offerings. Some of our websites contain links to other sites. By clicking on these links, you will leave the website operated by Ghids Media and this Privacy Policy will no longer apply. These other sites’ information practices may be different than ours. You should consult the other sites’ privacy notices, as we have no control over information submitted to or collected by these third parties.
How we use the information we collect
We use the personally-identifying information you provide us to fulfill your requests for our products, programs, and services, respond to your inquiries about offerings, and offer you other products, programs, or services that we believe may be of interest to you. We sometimes use this information to communicate with you, such as to notify you when you have won one of our contests, make changes to subscriber agreements, fulfill a request by you for an online newsletter, or contact you about your account with us. We do not use your personal information to make automated decisions. We may syndicate the publicly available content of our community areas to unaffiliated third-party websites using RSS or other technologies. The information you have shared in the community areas may be included in this syndication. We will use the personally-identifying information that you provide about others in order to provide the products or services that you have requested; for example, to enable us to send them your gifts or cards. If you provide us someone else’s personally-identifying information for referral purposes, we may use that information to invite them to visit our websites or to provide them information about our products or services. If you provide us with your email and/or postal address, we may include that address in email and/or postal address lists that we sell, trade, or rent to third parties. These lists will never contain sensitive information. If you do not wish for your email or postal address to be shared with companies not owned by Bonnier who want to market products or services to you, you have the opportunity to opt out, as described below. You may also opt out of the receipt of any marketing materials from Ghids Media as described below. We may transfer your sensitive personally-identifying information to other Bonnier offices for internal management and administrative purposes. In addition, your personal data will be transferred to other Bonnier offices where necessary for the performance or conclusion of our contractual obligations to you or for your benefit. Transfers of personally-identifying information may also be made where necessary for the establishment, exercise, or defense of legal claims. We do not transfer personal information internationally. Ghids Media will only share your sensitive personal information with outside companies or individuals in any of the following limited circumstances:
  • When we use trusted businesses or persons to process personal information on our behalf. Before sharing any personal information with outside parties, we require that these parties agree to process such information based on our instructions and in compliance with this Privacy Policy and any other appropriate confidentiality and security measures.
  • When we have a good faith belief that access, use, preservation, or disclosure is necessary to:
  1. comply with applicable law, regulation, or legal process;
  2. enforce the applicable Terms of Service or other agreements and policies on the Company’s Websites;
  3. detect, prevent, or otherwise address fraud, security, or technical issues; or
  4. protect against imminent harm to the rights, property, or safety or Ghids Media, its users, or the public as required or permitted by law.
  • When you consent. Before we share your sensitive personal information outside of the previously listed circumstances, we will ask you for permission first. Please note that this only applies to sensitive information, as defined above.
We may also use, transfer, sell, and share aggregated, anonymous data about our users for any legal purpose, such as analyzing usage trends and seeking compatible advertisers and partners. In no event will this aggregated data contain any information that could be used to identify individual users of our products or services.
How we protect the safety and integrity of the information we collect
We take appropriate physical, electronic, and procedural measures to safeguard and protect your personal information. We use a variety of security measures, including encryption and authentication, to maintain the confidentiality of your personal information. We store your personal information on systems behind firewalls that are only accessible to a limited number of persons, each of whom is required to keep the information confidential. We also take appropriate measures to secure the transmission of sensitive personal information from your computer to the Company’s computers. When you transmit sensitive personal information to us, like credit card information, we offer the use of a secure connection to our servers. To the extent you select the secure connection method or your browser supports such functionality, all credit card account information that you supply is transmitted via secure encryption technology. Regardless of these measures, no system connected to the Internet or data transmission sent over the Internet can be guaranteed to be 100% secure. We will provide notice if we become aware of any security breach that may affect any sensitive personal information pertaining to you that we have stored on our systems. Ghids Media only collects personal information that is relevant to the purposes for which it will be used. Though we do take appropriate steps to review and update the information that we store to ensure that it is accurate, complete, and current, we also depend on you to update or correct your personal information when necessary. To protect your privacy and security, we will take reasonable steps to help verify your identity before granting access or making corrections. We will decline to process requests where we cannot verify the identity of the requester. We may also decline to process requests that are automated, repetitive, systematic, or impractical, or that might jeopardize the privacy of others. In some limited circumstances, such as to resolve disputes, troubleshoot problems, and enforce our policies, we may retain some of information that you have requested us to remove. Therefore, you should not expect that all of your personal information will be completely removed from our databases in response to your requests.
Your privacy options
We do not share your email address with any third-party, unless you have given us the explicit permission to do so. Email messages we send on behalf of our advertisers or other Bonnier brands are delivered from our internal email marketing system only. We may also use an encrypted form of your email address strictly for matching purposes, both internally and externally. We only want to communicate with you if you want to hear from us. All email messages we send will contain Unsubscribe and Manage Preferences links in the footer of each email, which you can use to control what type of email messages you receive. In order to provide you with all relevant content for our brand(s) with which you have interest and to give you the greatest degree of control over what type of messages you receive, your email address may exist on multiple lists. Taking action using the Unsubscribe link will suppress you from a single list for that type of content (ex: Editorial, Sponsored or Consumer Marketing). For this reason, if you want to stop receiving all email messages from a Bonnier brand, using the Manage Preferences link from the email footer may be a more appropriate option. You may also use the Manage Preferences link to receive other content types, update your personal information or sign up for emails from other Ghids Media brands.
Questions, Concerns, and Complaints
If you have any questions or concerns about this Policy, or if you think that we have used your personal information in a manner inconsistent with this Policy, please contact us by mail or email: Data Protection Office Ghids Media Corporation 11007 Griffing Blvd. Miami, FL33161 [email protected] If we receive a complaint from you, we will contact you in an attempt to address your concerns. If we are not able to resolve a complaint, we will participate in appropriate independent recourse mechanisms as necessary. Boats Guide Florida, Usa Onboard, Alma Magazine, Alma Miami and Ghids are Trademarks of Ghids Media Corp.

GHIDS MEDIA